Mario Dibona Moro

Certified UIAGM-IFMGA Mountain Guide, Italian National Instructor – Knight of the Italian Republic for sports achievements – Member of the historical mountaineering group “Scoiattoli of Cortina”

"When I was a child, I used to have a natural instinct for running. I was always running to such an extent that my blood used to warm up and strange skin marks appeared on my legs. I remember my father used to tie a rope to my waist to keep me from running when we went hiking on mountain trails. I used to run and climb every tree, rock face, wall and any other high place to which my attention was drawn.

My first climbing experiences were on boulders: I was a ten-year-old child and I used to try and climb boulders with my friends, with just a rope that my grandfather used to fasten hay. When I grew older, my father gave me a red climbing rope and some light alloy karabiners: to me, it was a dream coming true.

From that moment on, I started repeating all the most important and difficult climbing routes of the Dolomites with my friends Mox, Bellodis, “il Principe” and Spidy. We shared a great passion for climbing and were adventurous spirits, but we would easily forget the fundamental safety measures.

As soon as I came of age, I attended the training courses to become Mountain Guide and national instructor, then I joined the Alpine Rescue Team and the prestigious “Scoiattoli of Cortina” mountaineering group.

I spent a long time mountaineering on the Himalaya. I went there not just to climb and discover new mountains, but also to meet their silent people, to learn how to meditate and respect cultures and religions completely different from ours.

“The mountains are silent teachers that make taciturn students”, as Johann W. Goethe wrote in his works."

Most important ascents

In 1990, after having climbed various peaks in France, Spain, Africa, America, Greece, he started ascending the highest mountains all over the world, from Himalaya in Nepal to the Karakoram range in Pakistan, from Alaska to New Zealand and to Peru’s Cordillera Blanca.

  • Pumorì - 7200 metres - Catalan route – Nepal
  • Lobuche Peak - 6100 metres - new route - Nepal
  • Cho-Oyu - 8200 metres - normal route - Himalaya, Tibet
  • Alpamayo - 5900 metres - Ferrari route - Cordillera Blanca, Peru;
  • Gascherbrun II - 8035 metres - Himalaya, Pakistan
  • Island Peak - 6150 metres - direct route - Nepal
  • Everest - 8848 metres - north face - Tibet
  • Broad Peak - 8030 metres - central peak, normal route - Himalaya, Pakistan
  • K2 - 8611 metres - Sperone Abruzzi - Himalaya, Pakistan
  • Mount Elbrus - 5642 metres - Russia
  • Mount McKinley - Alaska
  • Mount Aspiring - Nuova Zelanda
  • He pioneered several climbing routes on the Dolomites.
  • In midwinter, in 7 days and 6 nights, never climbing back down to get additional supplies, he reached on his own all the main peaks of Cortina's basin.
  • An enthusiast mountain runner, with his friend Fabio Meraldi he set the record of 3h 10min run from the town centre of Cortina to the top of Tofana di Rozes and backwards, with an overall height difference of 4180 metres.
  • Fond of ski mountaineering and off-piste skiing, he has skied on almost every Alpine glacier, in the Norwegian fiords, on Mount Toubcal in Africa and on Mount Elbrus in Russia.

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