Diretta Dimai Route on the Great Tower of the 5 Torri

This Route was opened in 1933 by Giuseppe Dimai, C. Degasper, G. Ghedina and A. Verzi.

From the 5 Torri Lodge or the Scoiattoli Lodge, it takes just 15 minutes to reach the start of the route, just below the southern face of the Great Tower.

It is a historic route, where the first climbers were looking for possible climbing lines along a straight vertical face. A few great lengths progress on orange-colored rock with holes offering excellent holds.

This route is recommended for high-level climbers who do not fear exposure, as they will constantly hang on the vertical wall on dangling ropes.

Information on the Diretta Dimai Route

L1 5b
The first length is shared with the Miriam Route and progresses along a smooth and rather worn out dihedral cleft.

L2 4b
We overtake a niche, reaching the base of the vertical face along easy rocks.

L3 6b/A0
On the left we cross a brittle rock to the spur, then in a difficult move we go straight up on the yellow-orange face, moving across with small holds and little support.

L4 5b
From the belay we climb straight up for a few meters, then we reach the belay by a very long traverse on the left.

L5 5b
Straight up on a beautiful rock, then slightly to the right, reaching just below the final overhang.

L6 6a+
We overtake the overhang on good holds, ending in a tricky exit on the left.

We reach the summit on easy and slightly brittle rocks, watching out for stones that might drop onto the trail below.

All belays are on resin-coated pitons. We climb down on the Normal Route.


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