Climbing route on the Torre Grande del Falzarego, Via The Wall

This route was opened on Torre Grande del Falzarego by Mario Dibona Moro, together with Gretchen Alexander.

Characteristics of the route

The route stretches out on Torre Grande del Falzarego, going past the large, vertical wall that lies at its foot. It is a cchallenging and tehnically demanding path, on perfect rock. The last pitch is definitely much more difficult than the other ones, however, it is possible to avoid it by traversing on the right side on easier rocks.

The route's grade is 7a+ max - with some 6b moves.
The route is entirely well-equipped with bolts.


15 quickdraws, cords and slings, friends.

Information about the route

Mountain/massif: Fanis.
Peak: Torre Grande del Falzarego
Mountainside: South-east.

Approach: duration time: 30 minutes approximately.
From the yard of restaurant Strobel, take the well-marked trail that leads to the foot of Torri del Falzarego. A clearly visible crack divides the two peaks, the start of the route is at the bottom of the crack, on the right-hand side.

Descent: duration time: 1 hour 30 minutes approximately.
From the summit, descend towards the north-west along a large grade 3 chimney (with cemented bolts). Then, go past the small saddle towards the west, proceed along the trail and past some cliffs and finally reach the car park.

Information about the climbing route Via The Wall to Torre Grande del Falzarego

L1 35m 6b/6b+
Vertical pitch on small notches, the rock is often wet.

L2 25m 6a
Enjoyable pitch on solid rock with good holds. Small traverse before reaching the belay.

L3 25m 6a+
Another good pitch but slightly more vertical than the previous one.

L4 30m 6c/A0
Crux: a challenging endurance pitch with notches and holes, it is possible to skip this move. The belay lies just above the wide ledge.

L5 35m 5b/6a
It is recommended to traverse the ledge and belay at the foot of the above rock face. The pitch is oblique, varied and rather challenging, it reaches a pine on a grassy terrace.

L6 20m 6a
Technical pitch. When the bolt line finishes, turn right on the friable ledge.

L7 30m IV°+
This pitch is shared with the Dibona variant of the route, which is equipped with pitons.

L8 25m 6a
Enjoyable pitch on perfect rock with holes.

L9 35m 6b+
Varied pitch with a technical move at the end of the yellow slab. From there to the belay then, the difficulty level decreases.

L10 30m 7a+/6b
Difficult start on a smooth rock face with very small holds. The rest of the pitch is slightly easier. This pitch can be skipped by traversing towards the right, reaching the corner (where the bolt is placed) and then complete a short traverse in order to reach the easy rocks that lead up to the summit.

L11 25m II°/III°
Easy pitch that leads up to the summit, watch out for unstable rocks. The belay is on a buttress.


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