This route was opened on Castelletto by Mario Dibona Moro with Gretchen Alexander and Armando Nascè.
This enjoyable route climbs up Monte Castelletto, that used to be a First World War battle field in 1914-1918. The route goes along a crack/dihedral that reaches up to the summit, the path is varied and never boring, the rock is generally very good.
The route's grade is 6a+ max - with some 5c moves.
The route is perfectly equipped with bolts and pitons.
12 quickdraws, cords and slings, friends.
Peak: Monte Castelletto.
Approach: duration time: 1 hour 30 minutes approximately.
When driving on the road that leads up to the mountain saddle Passo del Falzarego, stop in the yard of the red building that used to be the road inspector's house, known as Magistrato delle Acque, a few kilometres before the saddle, and take the trail that goes to Forcella Col dei Bos. Once you have reached the Forcella (saddle), continue towards Travenanzes and ascend on the right-hand side to reach a huge, cubical rock at the foot of Castelletto rock face. Proceed along the foot of the rock face until you reach a small flat space, marked by a cairn (you will see a bolt with a red cord nailed in the rock at approximately 4 metres above the ground).
Descent: duration time: 1 hour 30 minutes approximately.
From the summit, descend in the pebbly couloir for approximately 15 metres. On the north side of the rock face, on the left of the couloir, behind the corner, you will find the bolts that you will need to use for downclimbing (40 metres). Once you get in the large couloir, descend along the pebbly trail until you reach a via ferrata. You will then have to descend on the via ferrata in order to go back to the foot of the rock face.