Climbing route on the Tofane, Via Gugo to Castelletto

This route was opened on Castelletto by Mario Dibona Moro with Gretchen Alexander and Armando Nascè.

Characteristics of the route

This enjoyable route climbs up Monte Castelletto, that used to be a First World War battle field in 1914-1918.  The route goes along a crack/dihedral that reaches up to the summit, the path is varied and never boring, the rock is generally very good.
The route's grade is 6a+ max - with some 5c moves.
The route is perfectly equipped with bolts and pitons.


12 quickdraws, cords and slings, friends.

Information about the route

Mountain/massif: Tofane.
Peak: Monte Castelletto.
Mountainside: West.

Approach: duration time: 1 hour 30 minutes approximately.
When driving on the road that leads up to the mountain saddle Passo del Falzarego, stop in the yard of the red building that used to be the road inspector's house, known as Magistrato delle Acque, a few kilometres before the saddle, and take the trail that goes to Forcella Col dei Bos. Once you have reached the Forcella (saddle), continue towards Travenanzes and ascend on the right-hand side to reach a huge, cubical rock at the foot of Castelletto rock face. Proceed along the foot of the rock face until you reach a small flat space, marked by a cairn (you will see a bolt with a red cord nailed in the rock at approximately 4 metres above the ground).

Descent: duration time: 1 hour 30 minutes approximately.
From the summit, descend in the pebbly couloir for approximately 15 metres. On the north side of the rock face, on the left of the couloir, behind the corner, you will find the bolts that you will need to use for downclimbing (40 metres).  Once you get in the large couloir, descend along the pebbly trail until you reach a via ferrata. You will then have to descend on the via ferrata in order to go back to the foot of the rock face.

Information about the climbing route Via Gugo

L1 40m 5a
Challenging start on a vertical face up to the red sling. From there, reach the large debris ledge (be careful, the terrain can be unstable).

L2 35m 5b/5c
Varied pitch along a crack that ends up below a small roof, which can be overcome passing on the right-hand side. Be careful at the exit as there are 4 metres of unstable rock. Then, the rock is good up until the belay.

L3 30m 5a
From the belay, proceed straight for a few metres and then turn left on the dihedral.

L4 30m 5b
Amazing dihedral with perfect rock from the start to the belay point (which is in common with an old route). Along the path, there are some old pitons that have been left there intentionally, as historical remains of traditional mountaineering and its pioneers.

L5 25m 6a+/A0
Challenging pitch that requires strength for overcoming an overhanging crack. The bolts are placed close to one another.

L6 30m 5a
Enjoyable pitch on a yellow fissure that reaches a good belay.

L7 30m 5b
Enjoyable pitch on a vertical rock face and slabs. The belay is very exposed.

L8 40m 5b/5c
Climb along the crack-dihedral that ends up on the summit, passing a small roof halfway up the pitch.

Videos shot by drone


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