Climbing route on Lastoi de Formin, Via Paolo e Amedeo

This route was opened on Torre Marcella by Mario Dibona Moro together with Gretchen Alexander and Armando Nascè.

Characteristics of the route

This is a traditional climbing route that stretches out along the easiest path on the vertical face to the summit of Torre Marcella. It is a rather heterogeneous path along slabs and dihedrals, and includes also a small roof. The quality of the rock is generally very good, but there are a few moves and belays that require higher focu and caution.
The route's grade is VI max - with some V+ moves.
The route is equipped with pitons and bolts at the belay points.

Equipment

10 quickdraws, cords and slings, friends or nuts.

Information about the route

Mountain/massif: Lastoi de Formin.
Peak: Torre Marcella
Mountainside: West.

The Torre Marcella is a thumb-shaped, isolated pinnacle located in the lower part of the mountain group of Lastoi de Formin. The peak owes its name to its pioneer, the great mountaineer Luigi Ghedina, a member of the Scoiattoli of Cortina mountaineering group, who ascended it for the first time.

Approach: duration time: 1 hour approximately.
When driving along the road that leads to the mountain pass called Passo Giau, you will notice a road sign to San Vito di Cadore on your left. Immediately past the road sign, you will find a car park from where it is possible to spot the peak of Torre Marcella. From there, hiking along a trail through the woods well marked with cairns, it is possible to reach the pebbly slope that goes up right to the foot of the rock face. The start of the route can be reached by climbing up for 10 metres the large couloir on the right side of the pinnacle.

Descent: duration time: approximately 1 hour 30 minutes.
You will have to proceed eastwards along the sharp and brittle crest until you get to a vast plateau. Following the traces of a trail and its cairns towards the north, in 30 minute time you will reach the large scree slope of the couloir that goes down to the foot of the peak. From there, you can go back to the car park through the approach trail.

Information about the climbing route Via Paolo e Amedeo

L1 25m IV°+
Start on the first metres on friable rock, then traverse towards the right and enter the chimney. The belay is on a grassy terrace.

L2 38m V°+
The start is overhanging and rather difficult. You will reach an hourglass-shaped crack, then traverse towards the right (there is a little dried tree) and reach the corner. Continue straight on the rock face and then move slightly towards the right in order to reach the belay.

L3 30m V°
On the right-hand side, ascend along a succession of cracks and reach the overhang. You can go past it by passing on the right side (there is a piton with a rope).

L4 32m V°+
Enjoyable pitch on a slab and a crack. Climb along the corner until you reach an hourglass-shaped rock, then continue straight to the small overhang with a fissure, that can be overome by passing on the right-hand side. Continue along the dihedral/fissure and reach the belay on the right side, on the corner of the pinnacle.

L5 40m V°+
Vertical pitch with a small roof and a chimney that goes up to the belay point.

L6 15m VI°
Short but challenging pitch on an overhanging wall (bolt with rope). It requires good technical skills and endurance. The belay is on two bolts.

L7 50m IV°
This pitch is entirely on a slab, the bolt line goes straight up to the summit.

Equipment

Contact us to book your climbing excursion on the route Via Paolo e Amedeo, a climbing course or to require any further information

tel. +39 324 747 3939 – info@dolomitiskirock.com

Dolomiti SkiRock

Corso Italia, 14 - Cortina d’Ampezzo
Tel. +39 324 747 3939
Cod. Fiscale e P.Iva 01066430255