This route was opened on Torre Marcella by Mario Dibona Moro together with Gretchen Alexander and Armando Nascè.
This is a traditional climbing route that stretches out along the easiest path on the vertical face to the summit of Torre Marcella. It is a rather heterogeneous path along slabs and dihedrals, and includes also a small roof. The quality of the rock is generally very good, but there are a few moves and belays that require higher focu and caution.
The route's grade is VI max - with some V+ moves.
The route is equipped with pitons and bolts at the belay points.
10 quickdraws, cords and slings, friends or nuts.
Mountain/massif: Lastoi de Formin.
Peak: Torre Marcella
The Torre Marcella is a thumb-shaped, isolated pinnacle located in the lower part of the mountain group of Lastoi de Formin. The peak owes its name to its pioneer, the great mountaineer Luigi Ghedina, a member of the Scoiattoli of Cortina mountaineering group, who ascended it for the first time.
Approach: duration time: 1 hour approximately.
When driving along the road that leads to the mountain pass called Passo Giau, you will notice a road sign to San Vito di Cadore on your left. Immediately past the road sign, you will find a car park from where it is possible to spot the peak of Torre Marcella. From there, hiking along a trail through the woods well marked with cairns, it is possible to reach the pebbly slope that goes up right to the foot of the rock face. The start of the route can be reached by climbing up for 10 metres the large couloir on the right side of the pinnacle.
Descent: duration time: approximately 1 hour 30 minutes.
You will have to proceed eastwards along the sharp and brittle crest until you get to a vast plateau. Following the traces of a trail and its cairns towards the north, in 30 minute time you will reach the large scree slope of the couloir that goes down to the foot of the peak. From there, you can go back to the car park through the approach trail.