This route was opened by Mario Dibona Moro on a solo climbing excursion.
This ten-pitch route is an amazing climbing patch that stretches out on an excellent terrain of yellow rocks. It is a rather demanding but highly satisfactory route and includes a succession of dihedrals, slabs and overhangs. Even though it is a challeging patch, the climbers' safety is ensured by the numerous anchors, that are placed close to one another.
The route's grade is 6b max.
The route is perfectly equipped with bolts and some pitons.
15 quickdraws, slings, medium-sized friends.
Mountain/massif: Lastoi de Formin.
Peak: Spiz de Mondeval
The climbing route is located close to the mountain saddle know as Forcella Giau, on the side that overlooks the Mondeval plateau, one of the most beautiful and sunny spots of Cortina surroundings. The view from there is just breathtaking, as it encompasses Monte Pelmo on the foreground, Monte Civetta on the background and Marmolada on the right-hand side.
Approach: duration time: approximately 1 hour.
From Passo Giau, take the well-marked trail going towards the south-east, that leads to Forcella Giau. Once there, following the traces of an old trail and its cairns, proceed towards the centre of the imposing south face of the peak, where the start of the route is located. You will be able to spot the writing "Re Artu" (the route's name) at the foot of the rock face.
Descent: approximately 2 hours 30 minutes.
From the summit of the peak, descend northwards until you spot a large couloir on your right, with some red writings on the rocks that indicate the belays set up for the double-rope downclimbing (4 pitches of 25 metres each). Once you have completed the descents, proceed along the vertical rock face and you will get back to the start of the route (1 hour 30 minutes approximately).