Climbing route on Lastoi de Formin, Via Re Artù

This route was opened by Mario Dibona Moro on a solo climbing excursion.

Characteristics of the route

This ten-pitch route is an amazing climbing patch that stretches out on an excellent terrain of yellow rocks. It is a rather demanding but highly satisfactory route and includes a succession of dihedrals, slabs and overhangs. Even though it is a challeging patch, the climbers' safety is ensured by the numerous anchors, that are placed close to one another.
The route's grade is 6b max.
The route is perfectly equipped with bolts and some pitons.

Equipment

15 quickdraws, slings, medium-sized friends.

Information about the route

Mountain/massif: Lastoi de Formin.
Peak: Spiz de Mondeval
Mountainside: South.

The climbing route is located close to the mountain saddle know as Forcella Giau, on the side that overlooks the Mondeval plateau, one of the most beautiful and sunny spots of Cortina surroundings. The view from there is just breathtaking, as it encompasses Monte Pelmo on the foreground, Monte Civetta on the background and Marmolada on the right-hand side.

Approach: duration time: approximately 1 hour.
From Passo Giau, take the well-marked trail going towards the south-east, that leads to Forcella Giau. Once there, following the traces of an old trail and its cairns, proceed towards the centre of the imposing south face of the peak, where the start of the route is located. You will be able to spot the writing "Re Artu" (the route's name) at the foot of the rock face.

Descent: approximately 2 hours 30 minutes.
From the summit of the peak, descend northwards until you spot a large couloir on your right, with some red writings on the rocks that indicate the belays set up for the double-rope downclimbing (4 pitches of 25 metres each). Once you have completed the descents, proceed along the vertical rock face and you will get back to the start of the route (1 hour 30 minutes approximately).

Information about the climbing route Via Re Artù

L1 30m 6a
This pitch begins with a rather difficult overhang and continues on a slab. The belay is good, on the right-hand side.

L2 30m 6a+
Overhanging pitch that requires good agility. The yellow rock has good holds.

L3 27m 5b
This pitch is on a slab and includes a traverse towards the right . Good belay on a terrace.

L4 40m 5a/b
The starting metres are quite vertical and then the difficulty level decreases. You will get below a huge rock, that you can overcome passing on the left-hand side.

L5 28m 5b
Amazing yellow dihedral with exit on the right-hand side. Before reaching the belay, you will need to pass a small overhang with fissures.

L6 50m 6b
Crux: this pitch goes up on a perfect grey slab and reaches below a huge roof. The starting oblique traverse towards the right is rather difficult.

L7 30m 6a
Climb up on the yellow wall between the two roof, along a flake. With a traverse towards the right you will reach the belay on the ledge.

L8 38m 6b
Vertical pitch with a rather difficult, overhanging start. Climb on an indented crack up to the bolt on the right-hand side, just before the belay.

L9 35m 6a+
Varied pitch with slabs and small overhangs, a rather difficult one.

L10 40m 5b
Climb along the crack up to the summit. The pitch is equipped with pitons. Belay on the bolt just before reaching the top, beware the rocks that the rope can pull down.

Equipment

Contact us to book your climbing excursion on the route Via Re Artù, a climbing course or to require any further information

tel. +39 324 747 3939 – info@dolomitiskirock.com

Dolomiti SkiRock

Corso Italia, 14 - Cortina d’Ampezzo
Tel. +39 324 747 3939
Cod. Fiscale e P.Iva 01066430255