Normal Route to Becco di Mezzodí

The name “Becco di Mezzodí” comes from the fact that at high noon the sun stands vertically on top of this spiky peak. They say that in ancient times it was an astronomical strategic point to identify constellations in the sky. A minor peak compared to the great mountains around it, it's strategically located in the middle of the great amphiteater surrounding the highest peaks in the Dolomites: Croda Rossa, Cristallo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Antelao, Pelmo, Civetta and Marmolada bring a particular charm to this mountain.

The normal route is quite easy and accessible to most. The most challenging stretch consists in handling a hike at 3+ level of difficulty. From the top you can see the beautiful Cortina basin and its surrounding mountains.

Information on the Normal Route to the Becco di Mezzodì

  • Mountain Range: Croda da Lago
  • Exposure: South West
  • Total climbing time: about 1 ½ hours
  • Total climbing time to and from the rifugio: about 5 hours
  • Equipment: one 60 meter rope, 6 rappels, slings
  • Support Points: Rifugio Croda da Lago – Malga Federa

Starting from Rifugio Croda da Lago (we recommend to reach it by 4x4 Jeep service from Cortina) we follow a nice dirt trail up to Forcella Ambrizzola overlooking the wide Mondeval plateau. Following the ridge east towards the border we reach a large rock; then we continue on a sketchy unstable trail to the start of the route (about two hours from the rifugio).

The first length overtakes a short grade 3 face and up to the chained belay. The second length crosses to the right and reaches a 12 meter chimney at 3+ level of difficulty. We belay on a chain. The third length overtakes a short cliff. The fourth length crosses to the right (the color marks are not quite visible) on a narrow ledge and a few cliffs. Following along the ending ridge we reach the summit, paying attention to large unstable rocks.

An interesting alternate route consists in climbing straight up on the nice grade 3 face, belaying on a spur, then following the ridge to the top.

We come down along the upward trail we previously took, lowering on chains with double ropes.


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