Mountain Guides Route on the Great Tower in the 5 Torri

This route was opened in 1930 by P. Dallamano and R. Ghirardini

Ten minutes away from the Scoiattoli Lodge and 20 from the 5 Torri Lodge we find the start of the route, just below the South-West face of the Great Tower in the 5 Torri.

The Guides' route is quite nice and is recommended for individuals who have not yet acquired good climbing experience. It's an ideal itinerary for a climbing class. We climb in the center of the face, always on nice gray rock providing solid holds.

There is only one challenging passage, just before the first belay, when we overtake a small but smooth overhang. From the peculiar small top, which is completely flat, we can enjoy a spectacular view.

Information on the Alpine Guides Route at the Great Tower in the 5 Torri

L1 III – one move at IV
We climb straight up for a few meters, then we bend slightly to the right, reaching a few large cemented pitons where we can take a half-way belay. We cross for a few meters to the right, reaching a small overhang that we overtake with an athletic move slightly to the left.

We climb straight up reaching just below a yellow face, then we belay on the right.

We go beyond a second small overhang and we continue slightly on the left to a belay, on a nice ledge.

We climb up to a short corner leading to the final face just before the summit.

All belays are on large cemented pitons. We climb down on the opposite side by two 25-meter rappels, reaching the Normal Route, then a second 25-meter rappel to the base of the tower.


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