Climbing route on Lastoi de Formin, Via La Belle Époque

This route was opened on Torre Marcella by Mario Dibona Moro on a solo climbing trip.

Characteristics of the route

The route is located on the grey rock face, on the left side of Torre Marcella, along vertical slabs that are cut by two cracks. The route stretches out mainly along a succession of smaller and larger cracks, up to the summit of the peak.
The difficulty level remains unvaried for almost the whole route, except for the very last pitches where, a couple of metres before the summit, you will reach an amazing, grassy plateau.
The route's grade is 6b+ max - with some 6a moves.
The route is entirely, perfectly equipped with bolts.

Equipment

12 quickdraws, slings, friends.

Information about the route

Mountain/massif: Lastoi de Formin.
Peak: Torre Marcella
Mountainside: West.

The Torre Marcella is a thumb-shaped, isolated pinnacle located in the lower part of the mountain group of Lastoi de Formin. The peak owes its name to its pioneer, the great mountaineer Luigi Ghedina, a member of the Scoiattoli of Cortina mountaineering group, who ascended it for the first time.

Approach: duration time: approximately 1 hour 30 minutes.
When driving along the road that leads to the mountain pass called Passo Giau, you will notice a road sign to San Vito di Cadore on your left. Immediately past the road sign, you will find a car park from where it is possible to spot the peak of Torre Marcella. From there, hiking along a trail through the woods well marked with cairns, it is possible to reach the pebbly slope that goes up right to the foot of the rock face. The start of the route can be reached by going up for approximately 200 metres along the large couloir on the left side of the pinnacle, until you reach the crack which is clearly visible on the rock face (you will also see a bolt with its rope).

Descent: duration time: approximately 1 hour 30 minutes.
You will have to traverse north-eastwards until you cross the traces of an old trail: follow them and the cairns until you reach the top of the large, pebbly couloir that goes down to the foot of the pinnacle. From there, you can go back to the car park through the approach trail.

Information about the climbing route Via La Belle Époque

L1 28m 5a
A dihedral/chimney that goes up to the belay, placed on the left-hand side on a slab.

L2 35m 5c
Challenging pitch, overhanging at the beginning. The rock can be friable but the protections are good.

L3 30m 5b
This pitch is entirely on a grey slab.

L4 35m 5a
Traverse towards the left and then layback on a grey/yellow dihedral.

L5 15m 5c
Short but rather difficult traverse towards the left.

L6 30m 6b+/A0
Crux: this pitch on a slab and a crack includes a small overhang with fissure that is rather difficult to tackle.

L7 30m 6a+
Enjoyable vertical slab that reaches the end of the route.

Equipment

Contact us to book your climbing excursion on the route Via La Belle Époque, a climbing course or to require any further information

tel. +39 324 747 3939 – info@dolomitiskirock.com

Dolomiti SkiRock

Corso Italia, 14 - Cortina d’Ampezzo
Tel. +39 324 747 3939
Cod. Fiscale e P.Iva 01066430255