Climbing with the Author: Moro's routes

Mario Dibona Moro, either on his own or with the help of his colleagues and friends keen on rock climbing, discovered and established many sport climbing routes, which are among the most renowned and sought-after routes of the Dolomites.

These routes have different lengths and levels of difficulty and stretch out through slabs, dihedrals and cracks in a beautiful and enjoyable environment. The paths are never banal or unsurprising and allow a constant and gratifying climb.

During the summer, Mario guides his clients and friends to climb up with him the routes he traced, offering a privileged viewpoint to his climbing partner, sharing stories and teaching him his climbing tricks and techniques.

Moro's routes

"At the end of the '80s, some mountaineers started to open new climbing routes and equipped them with bolts, using the electronic drilling machine. In Cortina arrived the renowned climber Eugenio Cipriani, dressed up in garish colours, lured by the possibility of pioneering new routes along rock faces that were still unexplored. His method of tracing new routes was sometimes criticized, as he used to place too many anchors on relatively easy climbs. A few years later, Massimo da Pozzo, a young member of the mountaineering group "Scoiattoli of Cortina" also known as Mox, started pioneering new routes equipped with modern bolts, trying to place them far from one another on extremely difficult paths. I placed myself in between these two mountaineers and their two different methods: I tried to open routes of average difficulty and equip them within acceptable safety parameters, with the aim of offering enjoyable climbs. The routes I opened are equipped with "fix" bolts and can also be used for descending in complete safety. I chose to place bolts even where I could have placed pitons because the latter are often stolen by ill-mannered and disrespectful "mountaineers"."

Via Odio la Guerra - 6b+ max - Lagazuoi, South-west face

A six-rope-long route opened with Andrea Bacchin, well equipped with bolts and steel chain anchors. It allows a continuous and athletic climb on amazing rock. The pitches of this route are on a solid, steep slab and two of them are overhanging and particularly difficult. The most important pitch is the fifth one, on a beautiful rock face with small handholds, that require precise movements and correct use of feet. The way back goes along the Cengia Martini, passing some historical outposts of the First World War.

Via Re Artù - 6b max - Spiz de Mondeval, South face - Lastoi de Formin

I pioneered this ten-rope-long route on my own. It is well equipped with bolts and allows a highly satisfying, brisk and varied climb on perfect yellow rock. The path goes along a succession of dihedrals, slabs and steep walls always in complete safety, thanks to the anchors placed close to one another. It is possible to go back either abseiling or walking down a panoramic trail.

Via Paolo Amedeo - 5c max - Torre Marcella - Lastoi de Formin

An eight-rope-long route opened with Armando Nascè and Gretchen Alexander using traditional gear, such as pitons, friends and slings. The route is traced on perfect rock and equipped with safe and handy anchors. This varied climb includes dihedrals, slabs and cracks and offers a spectacular view from the summit. The descent is not difficult, via an easy trail.

Via Niki-By - 6c max - Torre Marcella - Lastoi de Formin

An eight-rope-long route opened with Gretchen Alexander. The route is entirely equipped with bolts and allows an enjoyable climb in complete safety on good, solid rock. The most important pitch is the sixth, a highly technical section on a steep, yellow-black rock face, that requires precise movements. The landscape as seen from the summit of the peak is amazing. At the end of the climbing excursion, you will walk your way back on an easy trail.

Via La Belle Époque - 6b max - Torre Marcella - Lastoi de Formin

I opened this seven-rope-long route on my own. It is equipped with bolts and goes along a crack, more or less wide, from the bottom to the summit. It is a continuous and highly gratifying climb, with a challenging sixth pitch on an overhanging rock face. From the grass on the summit of the peak you will enjoy a wonderful view. Then, you will walk your way back on an easy trail.

Via I Love My Dogs - 6c+ max - Spiz de Mondeval, South face- Lastoi de Formin

A nine-rope-long route opened with Gretchen Alexander and equipped with bolts, some pitons and steel chain anchors. This route offers a brisk and varied climb on perfect rock, with a succession of athletic and demanding pitches such as the "key" one, that passes from an overhanging roof to a steep slab.  It is possible to go back either abseiling or walking down a panoramic trail.

Via Gaudeamus - 5c max - Col dei Bos - Falzarego

I opened this route on my own: it includes nine rope lengths and four additional rope lengths of the nearby Via Ada to reach the summit of Col dei Bos. It is equipped with bolts and some pitons. It is an enjoyable climb on good rock that goes along slabs with good handolds and spectacular dihedrals. The descent is via an easy trail.

Via Parole e Pensieri - 6b max - Torrione Zesta - Tofane

An eight-rope-long route opened with Gretchen Alexander and Armando Nascè. It is equipped with bolts and some pitons. It is a technical and fluent climb on good rock and yellow-grey slabs. The most important pitch is the last one, that requires excellent flexibility to grab the handhold. The descent is either via an easy trail or cable car.

Via The Wall - 7a+ max - Torre Grande del Falzarego

A nine-rope-long route opened with Gretchen Alexander and Antonio Betella. The route is equipped with bolts and includes wonderful grey and yellow overhanging slabs on perfect rock. It is a highly technical and continuous climb, that requires hard training. The descent is via an easy trail.

Via GuGo - 6a+ max - Castelletto di Tofana - Tofana di Rozes

An eight-rope-long route opened with Gretchen Alexander and Armando Nascè. The route is equipped with bolts and some pitons on perfect rock. It includes slabs, a challenging orange dihedral and an overhanging crack. It is an enjoyable climb that leads up to the summit of the peak Castelletto di Tofana, from where there is an amazing view. The descent starts with an abseiling section and then continues on a trail.

Via Brigida - 6a+ max - Col dei Bos - Falzarego

A six-rope-long route opened with Armando Nascè. The route is equipped with bolts and some pitons on perfect rock. Its pitches are challenging and never unsurprising, along cracks, dihedrals and slabs. The climb is continuous and intensive, even though short.  Abseiling descent.

Via Mamma & Papà- 6c+ max - Gusela del Nuvolau

I opened this nine-rope-long route on my own. The route is equipped with bolts and some pitons. It is a demanding route on perfect yellow rock and requires hard training and great focus. It is a continuous climb along slabs, dihedrals and cracks. Its most important pitch is a challenging, technical, overhanging traverse towards right. The way back includes both abseiling and trail sections.

Via Why Not - 6a max - Lastoi de Formin

I opened this eight-rope-long route on my own. The route is equipped with pitons and begins with the Via Priolo, a long, black, three-pitch dihedral. Approximately at the middle of the wall, leave the route Via Priolo and start climbing the Why Not route, traced along cracks and slabs and requiring brisk and technical climb. Descend via the signposted trail.

Via Dibona-Nascè - 5c max - Torre Grande - Cinque Torri

A six-rope-long route opened with Armando Nascè. The route is equipped with pitons on perfect rock, both yellow and grey. The climb is enjoyable and varied, including dihedrals, slabs and overhang. The descent includes abseiling and easy climbing sections.

Via Peter Pan - 5c max - Torre Quarta Alta - Cinque Torri

A four-rope-long route opened with Armando Nascè. This route traced on perfect rock is well equipped with pitons. The climb is enjoyable and technical on the slabs. The descent includes abseiling and trail sections.

Via Caterina - 6 max - Torre Caterina - Lagazuoi

An eight-rope-long route opened with Armando Nascè. The route is equipped with pitons and traced on good rock. It goes along cracks, dihedrals and slabs. The way back is down an easy trail.

Equipment

Contact us to book your climbing excursion with Mario, a climbing course or to require any further information

tel. +39 324 747 3939 – info@dolomitiskirock.com

Dolomiti SkiRock

Corso Italia, 14 - Cortina d’Ampezzo
Tel. +39 324 747 3939
Cod. Fiscale e P.Iva 01066430255