Dibona- Fabbri Climbing Route at Croda da Lago

Mario Dibona Moro and Samuele Fabbri opened the route at Croda da Lago on September 10th, 2018.

The large ramparts at Croda da Lago are interrupted by a wide grassy ledge. On the right, along the path leading to Forcella Ambrizzola, stand a few beautiful slabs forming a large trapeze.
To say the least, this place is magical: especially early in the morning, overlooking the lake and the wide meadows where horses, donkeys, and cows roam free.
The lodge, managed by a mountain guide named Modesto and his family, welcomes you offering great cuisine, delicious cakes and great beer!

Main Features

The route features seven lengths. In the first part it follows a black crack leading to the ledge, continuing on beautiful gray slabs. It is a vertical, athletic route and is challenging to those who “do not place their feet correctly”. In the first section the rock has good quality; in the second it's great.

The route is completely bolted with fixes and chains at the belays.

Equipment

Twelve quickdraws, a few slings and a rope 60 meter long

Information

Moutain Range: Croda da Lago
Exposure: East
Support Points: Croda da Lago Lodge, Malga Federa


Approach
From Croda da Lago Lodge we follow a dirt trail leading to Forcella Ambrizzola. After a 10 to15 minute walk, we turn right, climbing a grassy slope that will take us just below the face (total approach time: about 20 minutes). The shortest way to reach the lodge follows trail #437 (later #434) that starts at the Ru Curto Bridge, located along the road leading to Passo Giau. This itinerary is feasible in about 1 ¾ hours.
Alternatively, for those who want to easily reach the Croda da Lago Lodge, a jeep service is available by calling +39 348 656 0094.

Descent
From the last belay we do two 25 meter rappels reaching the ledge below which we cross going north for about 100 meters, where the four 30-meter rappels start 

Dibona- Fabbri Climbing Route at Croda da Lago

Specifications on the route Dibona-Fabbri climbing itinerary

L1
The first length starts on a slant to the right on a delicate slab, then straight to the belay.
35 meters, level of difficulty 6a+

L2
We follow the vertical crack with an athletic climb requiring some strength up to the belay.
30 meters, levels of difficulty 6a and 6b

L3
Relatively easy length reaching just below a yellow overhang.
20 meters, level of difficulty 4+

L4
We overtake the overhang straight away and continue to the ledge on black rocks.
35 meters, levels of difficulty for the first stretch 6a, then 6b all the way.

L5
Transfer length reaching below the face.
20 meters, level of difficulty 1.

L6
Beautiful vertical length on nice rock.
25 meters, level of difficulty 6a.

L7
Magnificent length on gray slab with a few tricky phases with small holds.
35 meters, level of difficulty 6a+.

Equipment

Contact us to book your climbing excursion at Croda da Lago on the route Dibona-Fabbri, a climbing course or to require any further information

tel. +39 324 747 3939 – info@dolomitiskirock.com

Dolomiti SkiRock

Corso Italia, 14 - Cortina d’Ampezzo
Tel. +39 324 747 3939
Cod. Fiscale e P.Iva 01066430255