Mario Dibona Moro and Samuele Fabbri opened the route at Croda da Lago on September 10th, 2018.
The large ramparts at Croda da Lago are interrupted by a wide grassy ledge. On the right, along the path leading to Forcella Ambrizzola, stand a few beautiful slabs forming a large trapeze.
To say the least, this place is magical: especially early in the morning, overlooking the lake and the wide meadows where horses, donkeys, and cows roam free.
The lodge, managed by a mountain guide named Modesto and his family, welcomes you offering great cuisine, delicious cakes and great beer!
The route features seven lengths. In the first part it follows a black crack leading to the ledge, continuing on beautiful gray slabs. It is a vertical, athletic route and is challenging to those who “do not place their feet correctly”. In the first section the rock has good quality; in the second it's great.
The route is completely bolted with fixes and chains at the belays.
Twelve quickdraws, a few slings and a rope 60 meter long
Moutain Range: Croda da Lago
Support Points: Croda da Lago Lodge, Malga Federa
From Croda da Lago Lodge we follow a dirt trail leading to Forcella Ambrizzola. After a 10 to15 minute walk, we turn right, climbing a grassy slope that will take us just below the face (total approach time: about 20 minutes). The shortest way to reach the lodge follows trail #437 (later #434) that starts at the Ru Curto Bridge, located along the road leading to Passo Giau. This itinerary is feasible in about 1 ¾ hours.
Alternatively, for those who want to easily reach the Croda da Lago Lodge, a jeep service is available by calling +39 348 656 0094.
From the last belay we do two 25 meter rappels reaching the ledge below which we cross going north for about 100 meters, where the four 30-meter rappels start