Spigolo Zero Climbing Route on the Tofana di Rozes

First climbers: Mario Dibona-Moro, Armando Nascè and Andrea Bacchin. September 2019

Scanning the face on the immense southeast face of the Tofana di Rozes, I saw the possibility to open a new route along a secondary spur, not as well known, made up of three rocky bluffs that form a great tower detached from the First Spur.

On this magnificent face, where parts of classic mountain climbing history have been written, I did not want to put modern spits, but “special pitons”, with the characteristics of traditional pitons, yet inserted in the rock like fixes, to guarantee a safe hold. I got carried away with enthusiasm and started climbing solo, bolting the first three lengths along a black strip of great and compact rock.

The following year, with Armandino, my historical partner in other firsts, I continued for a few more lengths. Afterwards I climbed more times with various climbing partners, but some snags prevented me from completing the route.

Finally, a few years later, in September 2019, with Andrea we finished this route that might become a classic among other magnificent routes on the Tofana di Rozes”.

Mario Dibona-Moro

Information on the Spigolo Zero Route

In about 40 minutes we reach the base of the face near the First Spur
by trail from Rifugio Dibona. On the northeastern face we can clearly see a black strip reaching up to a wide terrace. The first lengths of the route climb along this considerable black strip up to a shoulder leading to the next lengths. At the start, a 10 mm spit.

Length 1:
We climb right up on nice black rock with a difficult move just before the belay.
35 meters, level of difficulty 5 to 5+

Length 2:
A few meters above the belay we face a well-secured tricky smearing move.
35 meters, level of difficulty 5 to 6 A0

Length 3:
We climb a nice corner up the first ledge, then cross to the right for a few meters and continue on a grey face up to a larger ledge.
50 meters, level of difficulty 4 to 4+

Holding on to the rope for about 30 meters, we reach below the yellow face of the second tower.

Length 4:
Straight up for a few meters, then we cross to the right on yellow rock reaching just below a rounded rock slightly friable, then we continue up a nice, grey, vertical slab up to the belay.
30 meters, level of difficulty 5+

Length 5:
From the belay we climb a few meters up to the piton and with a tricky traverse we move to the left (do not go to the upper piton to the right towards the spur) then we continue up vertically on a nice slab reaching just below a rounded overhanging rock that we pass on the left, going back to the right at the belay.
20 meters, level of difficulty 6 A0

Length 6:
On a spur we reach a wide terrace.
40 meters, level of difficulty 4 to 3
On easy cliffs on the ridge we reach the third tower. It is possible to exit the route and do double-rope rappels on the right.
70 meters, level of difficulty 2

Length 7:
We briefly climb on the right on a vertical black and orange face, passing a small but dangerous overhang.
28 meters, level of difficulty 5

Length 8:
We climb to the left to enter a section of a gully heavily littered with unstable rocks.
30 meters, level of difficulty 3

Length 9:
On vertical slab with a move on small holds we reach the summit.
30 meters, level of difficulty 5 to 5+

After two vertical rappels ona 40-meter chain we reach a wide graveled ledge. On a fixed carabiner spit we drop 25 meters onto easy rocky terraces and to the next chain. We rappel on a 25-meter chain down to a gully; we DO NOT follow it, but we move a few meters to the right behind the spur, to reach the slabs leading to the foot of the face. A second double rappel on a 30-meter chain. On the last 45 meters we double rappel down to the foot of the face. In just 10 minutes we go back to the route’s starting point.

the route is well bolted with splits and chains at the belays. two 50-meter ropes and ten quickdraws.
A few medium-sized friends.


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