Climbing route on the Tofane, Via Parole e Pensieri

This route was opened on Torrione Zesta by Mario Dibona Moro, together with Gretchen Alexander and Armando Nascè.

Characteristics of the route

Torrione Zesta is a nice, sunny rock face out of the beaten track. The very steep and challenging path stretches out on a very good terrain of grey-yellow rock. The crux is on the last pitch. From the summit, in order to get back to Ra Valles, you will have to go past a friable crest and a grade 2 debris couloir: be careful!

The route's grade is 6b max - with some 5c moves.
The route is well equipped with bolts and pitons, it has bolts at the belay points.


14 quickdraws, cords and slings, friends.

Information about the route

Mountain/massif: Tofane
Peak: Tofana di Mezzo - Torrione Zesta
Mountainside: South-east.

You can see the Torrione Zesta onyour right when ascending on the Freccia nel Cielo cable car, just before getting to the terminal which is located uphill of Ra Valles.

Approach: two options:
1) Taking the Freccia nel Cielo cable car up to the Ra Valles terminal, approximately 40 minutes.
From the terminal, take the trail that goes along the ski slope and descend until you reach the foot of the rock face.

2) Starting from the car park of Piè Tofana, approximately 1 hour 20 minutes.
Ascend along the ski slope that goes down from Ra Valles to the car park until you see the signposts that indicate the trail to Forcella Rossa. From there, head towards the foot of the rock face, which is always visible from anywhere along the approach path.

Descent: two options:
1) Taking the cable car, 40 minutes approximately.
At the end of the climbing route, you will have to reach the uphill terminal of the Freccia nel Cielo cable car.

2) Through the trail, 1 hour 30 minutes approximately.
At the end of the climbig route, take the trail that goes down along the ski slope and reach the car park of Piè Tofana.

Information about the climbing route Via Parole e Pensieri on the Tofane

L1 35m 5b
The start of the route is on a grassy area and is marked by a cord. After the first easy cliff, proceed leftwards and go past the corner. Climb in the dihedral for a few metres, then leave it and proceed towards the cord that you can see on the grey slab. Continue until you reach the belay on the corner, on the left-hand side.

L2 25m 6a+
Rather difficult, oblique pitch towards the left. The belay is on a wide hourglass-shaped crack with a rope.

L3 35m 5c
On the left of the belay point, climb up a few metres on a slab, then traverse towards the right and pass a small overhang with good holds.

L4 40m 6a
Enjoyable pitch on a vertical, grey-yellow slab.

L5 28m 5c
Oblique pitch towards the left on a yellow slab with small notches. The belay point is on the ledge.

L6 50m 5c
Long, varied pitch on a slab and a dihedral. On the right of the belay, at one metre approximately, there is the first small overhang. Then, enter the dihedral on the left side and continue on the slab until you reach the belay, on grassy clumps.

L7 30m 5a
Varied pitch with a good slab at the beginning.

L8 30m 6a+/A0
Challenging, slightly overhanging pitch that can be overcome by passing on the right-hand side, where there is a countersunk hold.

L9 30m 6a/6b/A0
This vertical pitch requires good agility in order to stretch out and reach the good horizontal hold above.


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