Climbing route on Col dei Bos, Via Brigida

This route was opened on Triangolo del Col dei Bos by Mario Dibona Moro together with Armando Nascè.

Characteristics of the route

It is an enjoyable itinerary, ideal to be tackled in the cloudy days. The path is varied and begins with a 25 metre long traverse. The terrain is perfect rock.
The route's grade is 6a+ max - with some 5b moves.
The route is perfectly equipped with bolts and some pitons.


10 quickdraws, cords and slings, friends.

Information about the route

Mountain/massif: Fanis.
Peak: Triangolo del Col dei Bos
Mountainside: South.

Approach: duration time: approximately 45 minutes.
When driving on the road that leads up to the mountain saddle Passo del Falzarego, stop in the car park of the red building that used to be the road inspector's house, known as Magistrato delle Acque, a few kilometres before the saddle, and take the trail that goes to Forcella Col dei Bos. When you get to the tunnel, take the steep trail on the left and go up to the foot of the rock face, where you will find a cairn and a bolt at the start of the route.

Descent: duration time: 1 hour 30 minutes approximately.
You will need to downclimb four descending pitches on the west face of 30 metres each, using the double-rope technique. The belay points can be either on the right and on the left: be careful and spot them in advance!

Information about the climbing route Via Brigida

L1 40m 6a
This pitch starts with a vertical move and continues with a technically demanding long traverse.

L2 25m 5b
Short pitch. The belay point is on a large, grassy terrace covered with edelweiss.

L3 35m 5b
Ascend the sloping grey slab and reach the wide yellow crack, that can be overcome through an overhanging move.

L4 35m 5c
Peculiar and challenging pitch along a wide, oblique crack.

L5 30m 6a
Amazing pitch that stats on a slab and then continues on a dihedral.

L6 20m 6a+/A0
The crux is immediately above the belay: a challenging overhang that requires muscular strength. Then, the pitch continues on a slab with good holds.


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