This climbing route on the Torre Marcella peak was opened by Mario Dibona Moro together with Gretchen Alexander.
This nine-pitch route stretches out on a perfect terrain of compact rock with good belays and offers an amazing, highly enjoyable climbing experience, with some technically demanding pitches to be tackled with great focus and attention.
The route's grade is 6c max - with a few 6a moves.
The route is entirely equipped with bolts.
13 quickdraws, some slings, 2 friends that will be used as safety devices on the last pitch.
Mountain/massif: Lastoi de Formin.
Peak: Torre Marcella
The Torre Marcella is a thumb-shaped, isolated pinnacle located in the lower part of the mountain group of Lastoi de Formin. The peak owes its name to its pioneer, the great mountaineer Luigi Ghedina, a member of the Scoiattoli of Cortina mountaineering group, who ascended it for the first time.
Approach: duration time: approximately one hour.
When driving along the road that leads to the mountain pass called Passo Giau, you will notice a road sign to San Vito di Cadore on your left. Immediately past the road sign, you will find a car park from where it is possible to spot the peak of Torre Marcella. From there, hiking along a trail through the woods well marked with cairns, it is possible to reach the pebbly slope that goes up right to the start of the route, at the foot of the rock face.
Descent: duration time: approximately one hour and a half.
You will have to proceed along the sharp and brittle crest until you get to a vast plateau. Following the traces of a trail and its cairns towards the north, in 30 minute time you will reach the large scree slope of the couloir that goes down to the foot of the peak. From there, you can go back to the car park through the approach trail.