Climbing route on Lastoi de Formin, Via Nikibi to Torre Marcella

This climbing route on the Torre Marcella peak was opened by Mario Dibona Moro together with Gretchen Alexander.

Characteristics of the route

This nine-pitch route stretches out on a perfect terrain of compact rock with good belays and offers an amazing, highly enjoyable climbing experience, with some technically demanding pitches to be tackled with great focus and attention. 
The route's grade is 6c max - with a few 6a moves.
The route is entirely equipped with bolts.


13 quickdraws, some slings, 2 friends that will be used as safety devices on the last pitch.

Information about the route

Mountain/massif: Lastoi de Formin.
Peak: Torre Marcella
Mountainside: West.

The Torre Marcella is a thumb-shaped, isolated pinnacle located in the lower part of the mountain group of Lastoi de Formin. The peak owes its name to its pioneer, the great mountaineer Luigi Ghedina, a member of the Scoiattoli of Cortina mountaineering group, who ascended it for the first time.

Approach: duration time: approximately one hour.
When driving along the road that leads to the mountain pass called Passo Giau, you will notice a road sign to San Vito di Cadore on your left. Immediately past the road sign, you will find a car park from where it is possible to spot the peak of Torre Marcella. From there, hiking along a trail through the woods well marked with cairns, it is possible to reach the pebbly slope that goes up right to the start of the route, at the foot of the rock face.

Descent: duration time: approximately one hour and a half.
You will have to proceed along the sharp and brittle crest until you get to a vast plateau. Following the traces of a trail and its cairns towards the north, in 30 minute time you will reach the large scree slope of the couloir that goes down to the foot of the peak. From there, you can go back to the car park through the approach trail.

Information about the climbing route Via Nikibi

L1 38m 5a/b
Challenging start on an overhang (grey bolt), then the difficulty level keep decreasing up to the belay point on the small terrace (some pitons).

L2 15m 2° grade
Transfer pitch towards the vertical slabs of the pinnacle.

L3 25m 6a+
Slab pitch; the last metres before the belay on a small ledge are challenging.

L4 35m 6a
This pitch begins on an overhanging, technically demanding grey slab. Towards the end, it slightly turns right in order to reach the belay.

L5 30m 5b
On the right side of the belay point, climb up on the slightly sloping grey-black slab that has small but clearly visible holds.

L6 35m 6b/c
The crux, an endurance pitch on a vertical slab. There are small holds at the beginning and then a succession of holes (not always good) up to the belay.

L7 40m 6a
Enjoyable, long pitch that goes past a small overhang before reaching the belay point.

L8 35m 6a+
Challenging pitch that begins with a difficult traverse towards the right, just above the belay, and then continues straight to a good ledge.

L9 25m 3-4° grade
This is an easy pitch but, even so, it requires focus and attention as the rock is sometimes friable and protections are missing.


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