Climbing route on Mount Lagazuoi, Via "Odio la Guerra"

This climbing route on Mount Lagazuoi was opened by Mario Dibona Moro together with Andrea Bacchin.

Characteristics of the route

This six-pitch route stretches out on perfect, compact rock and is well equipped with good, safe bolts. The crux is very demanding, suitable for very experienced climbers.
The route's grade is 6c max - with a few 6a moves.
The route is entirely equipped with bolts.


14 quickdraws, some slings.

Information about the route

Mountain/massif: Fanis - Lagazuoi.
Mountainside: South-west.

This route climbs up Mount Lagazuoi, passing through areas that used to be battle fields during the First World War, in 1914-1918. The west face of the peak is crossed by the ledge called Cengia Martini. The lower part of the rock face is suitable for a highly enjoyable climb thanks to its solid, compact rock, while the upper part of the rock face is much more friable and dangerous.

Approach: duration time: 30 minutes approximately.
From the large yard of the Lagazuoi cable car terminal, you will start ascending along the ski slope up to the foot of the grey slab, which lies exactly below the line of the cable car wires. Once you get there, you will spot on the right-hand side, close to a huge rock, the start of the route: you can see the signpost with the route's name and, just a couple of metres above it, an old piton.

Descent: duration time: approximately 45 minutes.
When you have reached the large Cengia Martini ledge, take the trail on the right-hand side: it will lead you all the way back to the Lagazuoi cable car terminal yard.

Information about the climbing route Via Odio la Guerra on Mount Lagazuoi

L1 35m 5b
Slab pitch with a small overhang and then a traverse towards the left. Be careful to actually turn left instead on continuing straight along an old bolt line.

L2 38m 6a/b
Good, slightly sloping slab with a highly technical move a few metres above the belay. Halfway up on the pitch (you will find a piton with a cord), keep proceeding straight for a couple of metres and then turn right towards the belay.

L3 15m 6a+
Short pitch that goes past a roof which has good holds and is well equipped with protections.

L4 40m 6a/6a+
This pitch stretches out mostly on a slab and reaches a small ledge through a technical move on small holds. In order to reach the belay, you will have to pass a two-metre long scree.

L5 28m 6b+/6c
The crux: a slab pitch with small handholds and almost no holds for the feet. A rope tied to a bolt may be useful, even though the protections are placed very close to one another.
(When climbing with wet weather/on wet rocks, it is possible to avoid this pitch by turning right and going beyond the large rock on an easier path).

L6 40m 6a, a 6c/A0 move
Difficult free climbing start on an overhang that can be overcome thanks to the first bolts, placed close to one another. The rest of the pitch is highly enjoyable, it switches multiple times between going rightwards and leftwards thus creating some friction on the rope: it is recommended to lengthen the quickdraws.


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