This route was opened by Mario Dibona Moro during a solo climbing trip.
This nine-pitch route requires climbers to mix the traditional and the modern climbing styles, as it is a very heterogeneous path. It includes dihedrals, cracks and vertical slabs, mostly on a good rock terrain, except for a few pitches that require higher focus and caution.
The route's grade is 6c max - with a few 6a moves.
The route is well equipped with bolts and some pitons.
14 quickdraws, cords and slings, friends.
Peak: Ra Gusela di Giau
Approach: duration time: approximately 30 minutes.
From the Passo Giau saddle, take the trail that goes towards the north through a flat area and reaches the foot of the yellow, overhanging pinnacle. From there, you will need to use a climbing rope in order to pass the vertical cliffs and reach the large, grassy ledge on the left side of the huge pinnacle.
Descent: two options:
1) Through hiking trail: approximately 1 hour (recommended choice).
When you have reached the summit of Ra Gusela, descend towards North along the nice trail that leads to the easy via ferrata of Nuvolau. Continuing on the easy trail on the right side, you will get back to Passo Giau.
2) Downclimbing with the double rope technique: approximately 1 hour 20 minutes.
From the foresummit, descend for a few metres and you will see the ropes that will allow you to perform the three consecutive 30 metre long double-rope descents. When you reach the ledge, continue your descent passing along the vertical rock face, on a rather unstable terrain. You will then reach the ropes that will allow you to downclimb to the large couloir, from where you will go back to Passo Giau following the traces of an old trail.