Climbing route on Ra Gusela at Giau Pass, Via Mamma e Papà

This route was opened by Mario Dibona Moro during a solo climbing trip.

Characteristics of the route

This nine-pitch route requires climbers to mix the traditional and the modern climbing styles, as it is a very heterogeneous path. It includes dihedrals, cracks and vertical slabs, mostly on a good rock terrain, except for a few pitches that require higher focus and caution.
The route's grade is 6c max - with a few 6a moves.
The route is well equipped with bolts and some pitons.


14 quickdraws, cords and slings, friends.

Information about the route

Mountain/massif: Nuvolau.
Peak: Ra Gusela di Giau
Mountainside: South-east.

Approach: duration time: approximately 30 minutes.
From the Passo Giau saddle, take the trail that goes towards the north through a flat area and reaches the foot of the yellow, overhanging pinnacle. From there, you will need to use a climbing rope in order to pass the vertical cliffs and reach the large, grassy ledge on the left side of the huge pinnacle.

Descent: two options:
1) Through hiking trail: approximately 1 hour (recommended choice).
When you have reached the summit of Ra Gusela, descend towards North along the nice trail that leads to the easy via ferrata of Nuvolau. Continuing on the easy trail on the right side, you will get back to Passo Giau.

2) Downclimbing with the double rope technique: approximately 1 hour 20 minutes.
From the foresummit, descend for a few metres and you will see the ropes that will allow you to perform the three consecutive 30 metre long double-rope descents. When you reach the ledge, continue your descent passing along the vertical rock face, on a rather unstable terrain. You will then reach the ropes that will allow you to downclimb to the large couloir, from where you will go back to Passo Giau following the traces of an old trail.

Information about the climbing route Via Mamma e Papà at Giau Pass

L1 35m 6a
The start of the route is on the left side of the pinnacle (a bolt is placed there), on a grey dihedral/fissure. For the first metres, climb on the corner of the pinnacle and then enter in the dihedral with a chellenging overhanging move (you can use a medium-sized friend as an additional help).

L2 25m 5b
Climb on the yellow crack for approximately 10 metres, then turn right and reach a good ledge with many piitons.

L3 18m 6c
Crux: a traverse towards the right on a vertical slab with few holds. Some ropes are placed there to help climbers complete this pitch.

L4 38m 6a
A dihedral/crack with a challenging overhang (a piton is placed up on the left-hand side).

L5 40m 5a
From the belay, turn left on the grassy ramp (be careful not to continue straight along another bolt line) and reach the rock that is stuck in a blade-shaped crack.

L6 30m 5b
Enjoyable, varied pitch: through the dihedral/crack you will reach a rim, then, using the bolt on the left-hand side, reach the above belay on a large, sloping ledge.

L7 45m 6a+
Challenging pitch on a slab with small holds. From the belay, traverse the sloping ledge towards the left and reach the slab. The rock here can be friable, especially at the exit there are many unstable rocks, be careful!
From the ledge, it is also possible to leave the route following the abseiling path on the right-hand side.

L8 40m 5c
Enjoyable and varied pitch with an athletic start that ends on a vertical face with good holds. The belay point is on a ledge.

L9 30m 5b
This pitch goes past a wide black crack that creates a sort of cave in the rock face.
From the belay, after a few vertical metres, proceed on the pebbly ledge and reach the crack. The first metres of the fissure are friable but there are good protections, while the exit of the "cave" è is easier.

L10 15m 3° grado
Passing some cliff, reach the foresummit of Gusela del Nuvolau.


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