Climbing route on Croda da Lago, Via Claudia

Mario Dibona and Samuele Fabbri opened the route on the left trapeze of Croda da Lago on September 20, 2016

Main Features

The new climbing route on the Croda da Lago follows a clear logic line, developing on the left trapeze of the great lower bastion on slabs, corners, and cracks up to the great grassy ledge. Rock quality is great, offering a pleasant and safe climb.
The route is fully bolted by fix.

Gear

10 quickdraws, cords and slings, friend, and a 60-meter rope

General Information

Mountain group: Croda da Lago
Left Trapeze on the Croda da Lago
Face: East

Approach: 20 minutes from the Croda da Lago Shelter.
From the shelter, follow a dirt road taking you to the Forcella Ambrizzola. After walking 10 to 15 minutes, turn right and climb a grassy slope taking you under the face. The shortest route to reach the shelter is along trail #437 (later #434) starting at the Ru Curto Bridge, located along the road to Passo Giau. This route is doable in about 2 hours.

Those who prefer arriving at the Croda da Lago Shelter in comfort can take advantage of the Jeep service, four people minimum occupancy; round trip is € 25.00 per person.

Descent
Descend crossing the great grassy ledge to the north, until you can glimpse a large notch overlooking the lake. With two 25-meter double ropes you reach a new ledge going always north (about 50 meters) to the next rappels taking you back to the base of the face.
Follow the approach route to return.


Report on the climbing route for the Via Claudia on Croda da Lago

The Croda da Lago always arose interest among mountaineers; already at the end of the nineteenth century the Alpine Guides from Ampezzo were taking customers on the sharp peaks of this mountain. They left Cortina at first light and reached on foot the small shelter next to this beautiful alpine lake, climbing later the Innerkofler Tower or the Federa Tower.

Today these peaks are not as popular with climbers, still the beauty of this place surely deserves a visit.

The Alpine Guide Carlo Alvera, son of the shelter's keeper, bolted several lengths to climb on this beautiful rock, a 6a to 7b difficulty level.

Via Claudia Pitches

L1 25m. 5b

Climb straight up to a small overhang (fix) to continue on the oblique to the left to the belay with a chain.

L2 28m. 5c
From the belay climb right up to a nice smooth slab and pass it directly. Belay on a large ledge.

L3 15m. 4a

Short pitch taking you to the base of a series of corners - cracks

L4 28m. 5c
Beautiful and stylish climb on a corner – crack on the vertical.

L5 35m. 5a

After a short corner section climb on the right face of the great jagged crack, reaching below a dark and slanted slab.

L6 35m. 4b

Pleasant climb on the slanted slab's great holds, up to the great ledge.

In order to get to the seventh length, move about 15 meters to the right along the ledge, reaching just below the black rocks, the only weak point of the great yellow face.

L7 20m. 6a A0
Starting on brittle rock (resettable) gently crossing to the left, climb straight up on nice rock to the belay.

L8 30m. 5c

Delicate climb through a countersunk crack to the opening of the couloir leading to the top of the trapeze. Belay on 2 fixes on a great rock. 

Equipment

Contact us to book your climbing route on Croda da Lago or a rock climbing course in the Dolomites or to require any further information

tel. +39 324 747 3939 – info@dolomitiskirock.com

Dolomiti SkiRock

Corso Italia, 14 - Cortina d’Ampezzo
Tel. +39 324 747 3939
Cod. Fiscale e P.Iva 01066430255