Climbing route on Col dei Bos, Via Gaudeamus

This route was opened on Col dei Bos by Mario Dibona Moro during a solo climbing excursion.


This twelve-pitch route is highly enjoyable and very well designed: it begins on some slabs and then continues along an amazing dihedral. The last four pitches are shared with another climbing route, Via Ada.
The route's grade is 6a max - with some 5b moves.
The route is very well equipped with bolts and pitons.


13 quickdraws, cords and slings, friends.

Information about the route

Mountain/massif: Fanis.
Peak: Monte Col dei Bos
Mountainside: South.

Approach: duration time: approximately 45 minutes.
From the yard of restaurant Strobel, take the trail that leads to the foot of Torri del Falzarego. Proceed along the foot of the south face of Col dei Bos until you reach a scree slope. The start of the route is located approximately 30 metres above the scree (you can see the route's name, the first bolt and the rope).

Descent: duration time: approximately 1 hour.
From the summit, traverse the grassy plateau towards the west and reach the well-marked trail of the Via Ferrata degli Alpini. Proceed on this trail along the couloir of Ra Nona and down to the car park.

Information about the climbing route Via Gaudeamus

L1 30m 5b
This pitch is entirely on a grey slab, the rock is prfect with good holds.

L2 35m 5c
Another pitch on a slab, but more vertical and technically demanding. In the final part, below a protruding ledge, turn left and reach the belay which is a bit hidden.

L3 55m 4a
Very long pitch that traverses towards the left, it is easy but there are only few protections. It reaches up to the foot of the vertical yellow-grey rock face (be careful in this point).

L4 20m 6a/A0
Short but challenging pitch on a vertical yellow rock face. The traverse towards the right just before reaching the belay point is rather difficult.

L5 30m III°
Transfer from one rock face to another through a long horizontal traverse on friable rock (two bolts).

L6 30m 5b
Easy start even though on friable rock, followed by a technically demanding move. Then, the pitch continues on a slab with good holds.

L7 45m 5c
Amazing dihedral on perfect grey rock.

L8 40m 5a
Once you have gone past the yellow crack, turn right and reach the belay. From there, you can continue straight and pass a small overhang where there are not any protections and then reach the cemented bolts of the route Via Ada.

L9 40m 4a (Via Ada)
The pitch begins in a crack and then continues on a slab until it reaches a pebbly couloir, where there is a big cemented piton.

L10 45m 5b/A0 (Via Ada)
The start is vertical and slippery, you can place your foot on the bracket. Then, proceed on the slab up to the yellow crack.

L11 40m 5a (via Ada)
Ascend along a succession of fissures/dihedrals and reach a small overhang, that is easier to overcome by passing on the right-hand side.

L12 35m 4a (Via Ada)
The last pitch goes up in a chimney and reaches the grassy summit of the rock face.


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