Climbing route on Cima Piccola di Lavaredo, Via Cassin

This route was opened by Riccardo Cassin, Luigi Pozzi and Gigi Vitali on August 1934.

Characteristics

The Cassin climbing route on Cima Piccola di Lavaredo is a beautiful and classic itinerary. It's extremely logic climbing along the yellow overhanging face of the Piccolissima and a demanding climb, especially if you are free climbing. A few pitons are set along the climb and the belays are fully equipped.
Fifth and Sixth degree of difficulty and A0 (Seventh degree if free climbing).

Gear

15 quickdraws, cords and slings. Friend series
2 ropes 60-meter long

General Information

Mountain Group: Tre Cime di Lavaredo.
Small Lavaredo Tower
Face: South-East
Climbing time: about 4 hours
Elevation gain: 380 meters

Approach: about 35 minutes
From the large parking area at the Auronzo Lodge follow the dirt road leading to the Lavaredo Lodge. From there you can clearly see the climbing route.
Follow the trail up to the foot of the face.

Descent
From the top, we lower ourselves to the foot by double rope on cemented pitons. Watch out for falling rocks and do not let the ropes get stuck in the cracks!!

Details of the Via Cassin climbing route on Cima Piccola di Lavaredo

L1 45 m., IV+, V, IV, 2 pitons
Climb the yellow corner to a first terrace, through a crack, then you reach a second detrital terrace with two belay pitons at its base.


L2 30 m., IV, V+, VI- or V and A0, 7 pitons
From the belay, cross to the right and climb to another corner to another belay located on a smaller terrace.


L3 25 m., V+, VII- or V+ and A0, VI, V, 4 pitons, 1 jammed friend
Climb to the first piton just above the belay, then veer to the left towards a piton with a white rope, useful for resetting. Ignore the pitons on the vertical line, it is a more difficult variant, and move further to the right instead; enter a chimney and climb a few meters to a small terrace that will lead you to a belay across and to the right.

L4 20 m., VI+ or V+ and A0, VI, 7 pitons
Follow the vertical line, heading for the overhang just above. After passing it, continue through cracks, reaching a large detached flake where we stop.


L5 30 m., V+, VI-, V, 5 pitons
From this runout belay, climb a few meters to a piton with an old sling; then, taking advantage of a great crack for your hands, start the long cross to the left taking you to the base of an obvious pillar (ignore the vertical pitons leading to another route). Then, for a few meters climb up the corner formed by the pillar belaying on a small ledge.

L6 15 m., V, V+, 2 pitons
In a wide split, climb up inside the corner up to the top of the pillar where we belay.

L7 30 m., IV, 1 mote at V, 1 piton
Cross to the left, towards Punta Frida, bypassing the buttress leading to the grey rock, on to simpler and well-structured rocks to a wide ledge where we belay on two pitons.

L8 35 m., IV, 1 move at V+
Without an obligatory route, climb from the belay on the oblique to the left along cracks and flakes to a comfortable ledge where we set up a belay.

L9 and L10 60 m., IV, IV+
Follow the ledge to the left to an obvious chimney. Climb it up in a split exiting on its left face. Then on simple rocks up to the top, where you belay on a cemented piton with a big loop ring.

Equipment

Contact us to book your Cassin climbing route on Cima Piccola di Lavaredo, a climbing course or to require any further information

tel. +39 0438 6839487567 – info@dolomitiskirock.com

Dolomiti SkiRock

Corso Italia, 14 - Cortina d’Ampezzo
Tel. +39 324 747 3939
Cod. Fiscale e P.Iva 01066430255