Moro & Toro Climbing Route at 5 Torri

5 Torri have always been an ideal climbing training ground, a charming location, crowned by multiple towers, from low to the ground to overhanging and high. The faces provide beautiful climbing routes offering a variety of lengths and difficulties, all bolted either with cemented pitons or spits.

The route opened by Mario Dibona and Samuele Fabbri climbs along two beautiful towers leaning on one another: the Low Fourth Tower and the High Fourth Tower.

The route is not particularly challenging and provides a nice and elegant climb on slightly tilted slabs; it has been bolted with spits to ensure a pleasant climb on good, nicely secured rock. 

Information on the Moro & Toro Climbing Route

At the beginning the route climbs on the southeastern spur of the Low Fourth Tower.

Length 1:
Slightly overhanging traverse to the right followed by a climb on slab with slight holds up to the belay. (22 meters, 4b level of difficulty)

Length 2:
From the belay, climb in an elegant split position between the two towers and with a tricky traverse move to the north face of the High Fourth Tower up to the belay.

Length 3:
Nice climb on marvelous rock (20 meters, 4b level of difficulty)

Length 4:
From the belay, cross to the right to the spur, then go back to the left for a few meters, and finally straight up to the summit. (25 meters 4+ level of difficulty)

From the summit, rappel to the north (chain with lowering loop).
The drop is 40 meters long, but it is possible to do two 20-meter rappels (chain with loop at mid-face)

Suggested gear: 8 quickdraws and a few slings

Support Points:

  • Rifugio 5 Torri
  • Rifugio Scoiattoli
  • Rifugio Bai de Dones


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