Miriam Route on the Great Tower of the 5 Torri

In the 5 Torri the Miriam Route is the best known and deserves at least an encore by everyone coming to climb here.

The route climbs along the Southern face of the Great Tower for a total distance of about 200 meters. In some sections the rock is worn and slippery, especially on warm and humid days (we suggest the use of magnesium). It provides a varied climb, with cracks, corners and slabs, and a spectacular aerial traverse below the great yellow roof.

The route is recommended for good level climbers.

Information on the Miriam Route

L1 V+
After we overtake a slippery and worn out passage at the start, we climb a corner/crack from the lower point in the Great Southern Tower.

L2 IV
We go beyond a niche and we belay on two resin-coated pitons before the long and spectacular traverse.

L3 III
We cross to the left on slightly brittle yellow rocks to the start of the crack leading below the great roof.

L4 IV
We climb straight up just below the roof and by an exposed traverse on the left we reach a belay on a long and comfortable ledge.

L5 V
We keep going straight on the nice face and we go beyond a small but challenging protrusion, called “Mule's Back”. We keep climbing through a crack and a chimney, until the difficulties end.

L6 IV
We reach the summit on the Normal Route. All belays are on cemented pitons. We climb down on the Normal Route.

Please note: at the end of the fourth length, after the roof and the second traverse, we can climb on a beautiful 3-length variant, climbing to the right of the belay. This variant has been re-bolted with classic pressure pitons. The difficulty varies from V to VI.

Equipment

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