Climbing route on Lastoi de Formin, Via La Belle Époque
This route was opened on Torre Marcella by Mario Dibona Moro on a solo climbing trip.
Characteristics of the route
The route is located on the grey rock face, on the left side of Torre Marcella, along vertical slabs that are cut by two cracks. The route stretches out mainly along a succession of smaller and larger cracks, up to the summit of the peak.
The difficulty level remains unvaried for almost the whole route, except for the very last pitches where, a couple of metres before the summit, you will reach an amazing, grassy plateau.
The route's grade is 6b+ max - with some 6a moves.
The route is entirely, perfectly equipped with bolts.
Equipment
12 quickdraws, slings, friends.
Information about the route
Mountain/massif: Lastoi de Formin.
Peak: Torre Marcella
Mountainside: West.
The Torre Marcella is a thumb-shaped, isolated pinnacle located in the lower part of the mountain group of Lastoi de Formin. The peak owes its name to its pioneer, the great mountaineer Luigi Ghedina, a member of the Scoiattoli of Cortina mountaineering group, who ascended it for the first time.
Approach: duration time: approximately 1 hour 30 minutes.
When driving along the road that leads to the mountain pass called Passo Giau, you will notice a road sign to San Vito di Cadore on your left. Immediately past the road sign, you will find a car park from where it is possible to spot the peak of Torre Marcella. From there, hiking along a trail through the woods well marked with cairns, it is possible to reach the pebbly slope that goes up right to the foot of the rock face. The start of the route can be reached by going up for approximately 200 metres along the large couloir on the left side of the pinnacle, until you reach the crack which is clearly visible on the rock face (you will also see a bolt with its rope).
Descent: duration time: approximately 1 hour 30 minutes.
You will have to traverse north-eastwards until you cross the traces of an old trail: follow them and the cairns until you reach the top of the large, pebbly couloir that goes down to the foot of the pinnacle. From there, you can go back to the car park through the approach trail.
