Ferrata Alleghesi to Monte Civetta

The Ferrata Alleghesi is a challenging itinerary, not just for its technical difficulties, but for its long progression leading to the summit of Monte Civetta at an elevation of 3220 meters.

It is viewed as one of the most beautiful ferratas in the Dolomites: it offers the hiker a spectacular climb skirting at times the 1000-meter vertical northwest face, starting point of the most difficult climbing routes in the Dolomites.

In 1867 the British climber Francis Fox Tuckett was the first to conquer Monte Civetta. In 1966 the route of the Via Ferrata Alleghesi was studied and bolted by the Mountain Rescue Team to help lower the rescuers along the spellbinding north-west face when assisting climbers in jeopardy.

Information about Ferrata Alleghesi

When we park the car in the area of a large campground at 1541 meters, the hamlet of Palafavera marks the starting point. With directions on how to get to Rifugio Coldai, we walk briskly for about an hour to reach it at an elevation of 2135 meters. Here our adventure begins. From the rifugio we walk along the Tivan trail, following a path bolted at times with fixed ropes and highly visible markings painted on the rocks, until we reach the start of the ferrata.

It goes vertical from the start, but iron aiders make climbing easier. We continue through gullied and exposed sections, as our eyes enjoy the view of the beautiful lake and town of Alleghe from up above. In the final section just before the summit, we find easy climbing segments which are not bolted so it is imperative to pay attention.

When we reach the cross at the top at 3220 meters the view is breathtaking to say the least, spanning from the Marmolada, Pelmo, Antelao, and Sorapiss to the three Tofane.

Descent: from the summit we go east and walking on gravelly soil within 20 minutes we reach Rifugio Torrani and we continue along a couloir dropping down towards the valley. Even as we descend, we find uncommon bolted sections leading to the scree ending right on the Tivan trail which will take us to the rifugio.

  • Approach Time from Rifugio Cordai about 1 hour and 15 minutes
  • Climbing Time about 3.30 hours
  • Time to get back to the car about 2 hours and 15 minutes
  • Total Time for the Excursion about 8 to 9 hours
  • Level of Difficulty: challenging

Support Points along the way:

  • Rifugio Coldai
  • Rifugio Torrani

Equipment

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