Spigolo Zero Climbing Route on the Tofana di Rozes

Information on the Spigolo Zero Route

Approach:
In about 40 minutes we reach the base of the face near the First Spur
by trail from Rifugio Dibona. On the northeastern face we can clearly see a black strip reaching up to a wide terrace. The first lengths of the route climb along this considerable black strip up to a shoulder leading to the next lengths. At the start, a 10 mm spit.

Length 1:
We climb right up on nice black rock with a difficult move just before the belay.
35 meters, level of difficulty 5 to 5+

Length 2:
A few meters above the belay we face a well-secured tricky smearing move.
35 meters, level of difficulty 5 to 6 A0

Length 3:
We climb a nice corner up the first ledge, then cross to the right for a few meters and continue on a grey face up to a larger ledge.
50 meters, level of difficulty 4 to 4+

Holding on to the rope for about 30 meters, we reach below the yellow face of the second tower.

Length 4:
Straight up for a few meters, then we cross to the right on yellow rock reaching just below a rounded rock slightly friable, then we continue up a nice, grey, vertical slab up to the belay.
30 meters, level of difficulty 5+

Length 5:
From the belay we climb a few meters up to the piton and with a tricky traverse we move to the left (do not go to the upper piton to the right towards the spur) then we continue up vertically on a nice slab reaching just below a rounded overhanging rock that we pass on the left, going back to the right at the belay.
20 meters, level of difficulty 6 A0

Length 6:
On a spur we reach a wide terrace.
40 meters, level of difficulty 4 to 3
On easy cliffs on the ridge we reach the third tower. It is possible to exit the route and do double-rope rappels on the right.
70 meters, level of difficulty 2

Length 7:
We briefly climb on the right on a vertical black and orange face, passing a small but dangerous overhang.
28 meters, level of difficulty 5

Length 8:
We climb to the left to enter a section of a gully heavily littered with unstable rocks.
30 meters, level of difficulty 3

Length 9:
On vertical slab with a move on small holds we reach the summit.
30 meters, level of difficulty 5 to 5+

Descent:
After two vertical rappels ona 40-meter chain we reach a wide graveled ledge. On a fixed carabiner spit we drop 25 meters onto easy rocky terraces and to the next chain. We rappel on a 25-meter chain down to a gully; we DO NOT follow it, but we move a few meters to the right behind the spur, to reach the slabs leading to the foot of the face. A second double rappel on a 30-meter chain. On the last 45 meters we double rappel down to the foot of the face. In just 10 minutes we go back to the route’s starting point.

Gear:
the route is well bolted with splits and chains at the belays. two 50-meter ropes and ten quickdraws.
A few medium-sized friends.