Climbing route on Spalti del Col Bechei, Via Thriller

Mario Dibona Moro e Massimo Da Pozzo opened this route on the Spalti del Col Bechei on September 25 and 26, 1985.

Main Features

Interesting itinerary in 11 lengths, offering a sustained and technical climb on a slab, among the face overhangs. The rock along the way is spectacular.
It features 6b, 6c and 7a maximum degrees of difficulty; 6b is required.

Gear

12 quickdraws, cords and slings, friend series with stoppers.
2 ropes, 60 meters long

General Information

Mountain Group: Dolomiti di Fanes.
Spalti del Col Bechei
Face: South
Climbing time: about 4 to 5 hours
Elevation gain: 320 meters

Approach: about 1.40 hours (it is possible to rent a Jeep, saving a lot of energy).
From the parking lot at the entrance of the Natural Park of Ampezzo follow the wooded trail taking you to Val di Fanes (trail #10) up to the vicinity of the face, located at 1758 meters. Cross the Rio Fanes on a wooden bridge and continue for a few hundred meters along a grassy trail until it levels off. Take the steep slope on a slightly traced trail taking you to the base of the face. To reach the start, continue beyond the vertical climb of the great corner of the Via Los Angeles and pass a further cliff, bypassing it to the left; then follow the ledge on the right to a small tree.

Descent: about 1 hour and a half, to the base of the face.
Reach the grassy ledge, then cross to the left and descend for 300/400 meters among rocky slopes, up to a tall pine on the edge of the face (cord and carabiners). In three rappels (2 to 50 meters and 1 to 25 meters) return to the start ledge.

The route creator's report

"We started the route with a great spirit of adventure, without no previously studied logic trace. We started to climb this great, smooth limestone slab hoping to find a logical and nice route on the face length by length.

In those times, we mostly climbed on the slab and Massimo and I were very well trained and ready to tackle such a face. We put in all the split by hand, working very hard with our wrists and hammer...

Today the route has been mostly bolted with #10 fixes, making it more pleasant and a lot safer.

Difficulty levels are sustained and continuous. The most demanding lengths on the slab are well protected, while along the least demanding ones, where you can find pitons, it's better to supplement with friend and stoppers.

The most difficult length is the third before last, on a vertical smooth slab; it is possible to avoid it using a split located in the center of the slab itself, using climbing aid

Today the route is considered one of the most interesting in the Col Bechei area"
(Mario Dibona)

Equipment

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