Information about the climbing route Via Mamma e Papà at Giau Pass
L1 35m 6a
The start of the route is on the left side of the pinnacle (a bolt is placed there), on a grey dihedral/fissure. For the first metres, climb on the corner of the pinnacle and then enter in the dihedral with a chellenging overhanging move (you can use a medium-sized friend as an additional help).
L2 25m 5b
Climb on the yellow crack for approximately 10 metres, then turn right and reach a good ledge with many piitons.
L3 18m 6c
Crux: a traverse towards the right on a vertical slab with few holds. Some ropes are placed there to help climbers complete this pitch.
L4 38m 6a
A dihedral/crack with a challenging overhang (a piton is placed up on the left-hand side).
L5 40m 5a
From the belay, turn left on the grassy ramp (be careful not to continue straight along another bolt line) and reach the rock that is stuck in a blade-shaped crack.
L6 30m 5b
Enjoyable, varied pitch: through the dihedral/crack you will reach a rim, then, using the bolt on the left-hand side, reach the above belay on a large, sloping ledge.
L7 45m 6a+
Challenging pitch on a slab with small holds. From the belay, traverse the sloping ledge towards the left and reach the slab. The rock here can be friable, especially at the exit there are many unstable rocks, be careful!
From the ledge, it is also possible to leave the route following the abseiling path on the right-hand side.
L8 40m 5c
Enjoyable and varied pitch with an athletic start that ends on a vertical face with good holds. The belay point is on a ledge.
L9 30m 5b
This pitch goes past a wide black crack that creates a sort of cave in the rock face.
From the belay, after a few vertical metres, proceed on the pebbly ledge and reach the crack. The first metres of the fissure are friable but there are good protections, while the exit of the "cave" è is easier.
L10 15m 3° grado
Passing some cliff, reach the foresummit of Gusela del Nuvolau.
Equipment
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